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deviation road

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Deviation Road

www.deviationroad.com

214 Scott Rd, Longwood

Cellar Door: Daily (10 - 5, pub hols 11-5)

Ph: (08) 8389 2633

 

Deviation Road is a small modern winery and cellar door located on 50-hectare property only a five-minute drive south-west of Stirling.

Deviation Road was established in 1998 by Hamish Laurie, a descendent of South Australia's first female winemaker, Mary Laurie. His wife Kate, also a qualified wine-maker and viticulturalist, comes from a Manjimup wine family (who run Stone Bridge) which explains the occasional Manjimup input into the wine.

The winery was sold to Banksia Wines in 2001 but the Laurie's still provide the fruit and make the wine. Their 40 acre vineyard was established in 1983 and contains Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. The Sangiovese comes from Manjimup.

The contemporary winery has a cellar door which has moved from the original vineyard on Deviation Rd at Lobethal to Kate and Hamish's property at Longwood. The wines are complemented with a variety of local food produce, such as goat’s cheese and coffee, which are also available for tastings.

The few reds I have tried are rather acidic and sappy for my taste but the Reserve Chardonnay is a terrific expression of the regional style without too many winecraft inputs getting in the way. The barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc has plenty of the regional zing about it. The Pinot Gris also developed nicely with a bit of bottle age.

Tasting Notes

There are three types of Tasting notes:

(W) Notes from the winery (blurbs from bottle)

(GXY) Notes from a GenXY wine reviewer

(G) Notes from GenXY's Tasting events (collective opinions)

Deviation Road Loftia Vintage Brut 2014

Purchased: Not ($45)

Drink: 2019

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2017, for the first time Pinot Meunier has been added to the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay base, 24 months on lees, elegant with strawberry, white peach and baked apples with almond biscuit nuances,creamy mousse, toasty brioche development, crystalline minerality on palate and minimal dosage and bright lemon rind acidity (****1/2)

Deviation Road Pinot Gris 2016

Purchased: Not ($28)

Drink: 2018

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2017, partial barrel ferment, compressed warm vintage, plumpish but crisp pear, melon and red apple with ginger and musk spices, a touch of honeysuckle emerging, fresh lemony acidity adds some length (***1/2)

Deviation Road Gruner Veltliner 2016

Purchased: Not ($32)

Drink:2019

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2017, debut release, partial barrel ferment in seasoned French oak, vibrant lime and white peach with some brown spices, minerally and linear with firm grapefruit acidity (***1/2)

Deviation Road Loftia Vintage Brut 2012

Purchased: Not ($44)

Drink: 2016

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2015, 24 months on lees, derived from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, flavoursome but elegant baked apple, strawberry and warm dough, creamy mousse and fine bead, has the good line and crunchy lemon acidity of the 2011 vintage but also the overt dosage (****1/2)

Deviation Road Loftia Vintage Brut 2011

Purchased: Not ($34)

Drink: 2015

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2014, sparkling made from 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir, good creamy mousse and fine bead, elegant white peach, apples and strawberry with toasty brioche development and nutty notes from 18 months on lees, dry and fairly linear with an almost crystalline finish, lingering lemony acidity, dosage is a touch overt given the delicacy of the fruit (****1/2)

Deviation Road Mary’s Reserve Shiraz 2010

Purchased: Not ($38)

Drink: 2019

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2014, basket pressed, open top fermenters, 2 years on oak, fairly intensely flavoured but supple mulberry and dark plums with white pepper and violet notes, earthy, medium bodied palate with the 30% new French oak bringing charry coffee/cedar/cinnamon to the finish, fine grainy tannins, good persistence (****)

Deviation Road Pinot Gris 2013

Purchased: Not ($24)

Drink: 2015

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2014, the usual mid-Pinot G scale blended style from Deviation Road, half in an early picked Grigio style and half in a barrel fermented/leesy gris style, fresh pear, red apple and honeydew melon with ginger spices, musk and nougat notes, crunchy lemon rind acidity and chalky phenolics, the warm 2013 vintage suits this style (****)

Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2012

Purchased: Not ($32)

Drink: 2017

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2014, firmish, juicy and medium bodied red cherry and raspberry with rose petal and mint notes, fine tannins with fresh herbally/citrusy acidity, better fruit depth and length than the 2011 (***1/2)

Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2011

Purchased: Not ($32)

Drink: 2014

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2014, about 20% whole bunch inclusion, open top fermenters, from an atypical cold, wet vintage,  supple, earthy and light-medium bodied showing red cherry and plum with  rose petal and menthol notes and some leafy/stemmy complexity, fine tannins, fairly dilute finish (***)

Deviation Road Beltana Blanc de Blanc 2008

Purchased: Not ($68)

Drink: 2016

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2013, Trophy for Best Sparkling Wine at Adelaide Hills Wine Show 2012, 100% Chardonnay, four years on lees, good aromatics, delicate green apple, pear, creamy mousse with a modest touch of brioche, aldehydic complexity and honeyed toastiness, fresh lemony acidity, dosage is well integrated, unfolds with respectable line and length although not complex enough to go the top level (****1/2)

Deviation Road Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Purchased: Not ($18)

Drink: 2013

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2013, Bronze Medal at Adelaide Hills Wine Show 2012, this time the Lenswood fruit is blended with Gumeracha and Oakbank fruit, crisp, 100% stainless steel fermented style, showing grassy passionfruit, pear and lime with some modest anise and asparagus herbaceousness, talcy with a flinty finish with crisp orange rind acidity (****)

Deviation Road Ironbank Shiraz Cabernet 2010

Purchased: Not ($18)

Drink: 2018

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2013, basket pressed blend of 65% Shiraz and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, juicy and medium bodied dark plums and cassis with white pepper and mint notes, even weighted palate shape with earthy mid-palate, chewy and grainy tannins with the 30% new French oak adding cedar/vanilla and toasty oak spice to the finish, good value for price point (***1/2)

Deviation Road Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Purchased: Not ($18)

Drink: 2013

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2012, blend of Lenswood and Gumeracha fruit, restrained and minerally style showing grassy pear, lychee and lime with a touch of anise-infused herbalness and matchstick, flinty finish with crisp orange rind acidity (***1/2)

Deviation Road Pinot Gris 2011

Purchased: Not ($23)

Drink: 2013

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2012, partial barrel ferment, crisp pear, red apple and honeydew melon with a light touch of ginger, musk and quince, leesy with some tangy lemon rind acidity (***1/2)

Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2010

Purchased: Not ($32)

Drink:

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2012, 20% whole bunch inclusion, open top fermenters, silky and medium bodied wine is driven by the raspberry/ sour cherry contrast, some modest brown spice, herbal and rose petal notes but not particularly complex, fine tannins and stemmy acidity (***1/2)

Deviation Road Pinot Gris 2007

Purchased: Not ($20)

Drink: 2011

(GXY) Tasting: Feb 2011, picked at two different times, the early picked component brings a spine of apple malic and grapefruit acids, the later picked brings ripe pear, nougat and brown spice, partial creamy barrel ferment texture with flinty minerality, bottle age brings a touch of honeysuckle, finishes with some chewy phenolic grip, not completely integrated but shows more character than most Australian examples (***1/2)

Deviation Road Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Purchased: Not ($19)

Drink: 2010

(GXY) Tasting: Dec 2009, savoury, barrel fermented style, brown lime, lychee, passionfruit and blackcurrant, long chalky base with asparagus and capsicum notes on the minerally finish, lively acids give this some drive (****)

Deviation Reserve Chardonnay 2006

Purchased: Not ($38)

Drink: 2012

(GXY) Tasting: Aug 2008, from the Lenswood Vineyard, a crisp, lively and tangy expression of grapefruit, nectarine and honeydew melon flavours with honeysuckle and grilled nut nuances on the palate, balanced with toasty French oak (****)

Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2005

Purchased: St. Kilda Junction IGA ($16)

Drink: 2012

(GXY) Tasting: Mar 2008, fairly forward fruit showing plum, cassis and mint, quite full bodied (15% alcohol) but seems unusually hard edged and green for that much alcohol, assertive coffee, chocolate and cedar from the 20 months spent on French oak, spicy finish with plenty of acids, grippy but savoury tannins (***)

Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2003

Purchased: Parkhill Cellars, North Melbourne ($18)

Drink: 2005

(GXY) Tasting: Sept 2005, some Manijimup (WA) fruit input, the grippy acids slightly overshadow the savoury plum and chocolate, earthy medium bodied with spicy French oak (***)

Deviation Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Purchased: Cellar Door ($15)

Drink: 2009

(GXY) Tasting: Jan 2005, clean varietal expression showing blackberry and sour black cherry with mint, earthy and medium-full bodied, the tannins are a little green and sappy, touch of cigar box on the French oak, OK for the price (***)